RYOBI OPERATOR'S MANUAL - 10 in. (254 mm) TABLE SAW / BT3000

SPECIFICATIONS: Blade Diameter 10 in. (254 mm) Blade Arbor 5/8 in. (16 mm) Cutting Depth at 0º 39/16 in. (90.5 mm) Cutting Depth at 45º 2½ in. (63.5mm) Rating 120 Volts, 60 Hz-AC Only 15 Amperes Output Speed 4,800 RPM Net Weight Without Workstand 75lbs. (34.1 kg.) Net Weight With Workstand 107lbs. (48.6kg.)

Your new saw has been engineered and manufactured to Ryobi's high standards for dependability, ease of operation, and operator safety. Properly cared for, it will give you years of rugged, trouble-free performance.

CAUTION: Carefully read through this entire operator's manual before using your new saw. Pay close attention to the Rules for Safe Operation, Warnings, and Cautions. If you use your saw properly and only for what it is intended, you will enjoy years of safe, reliable service.

The purpose of safety symbols is to attract your attention to possible dangers. The safety symbols, and the explanations with them, deserve your careful attention and understanding. The safety warnings do not, by themselves, eliminate any danger. The instructions or warnings they give are not substitutes for proper accident prevention measures.
SYMBOL	MEANING
	SAFETY ALERT SYMBOL: Indicates caution, warning, or danger. May be used in conjunction with other symbols or pictographs.
	DANGER: Failure to obey a safety warning will result in serious injury to yourself or to others. Always follow the safety precautions to reduce the risk of fire, electric shock and personal injury.
	WARNING: Failure to obey a safety warning can result in serious injury to yourself or to others. Always follow the safety precautions to reduce the risk of fire, electric shock and personal injury.
	CAUTION: Failure to obey a safety warning may result in property damage or personal injury to yourself or to others. Always follow the safety precautions to reduce the risk of fire, electric shock and personal injury.
NOTE:	Advises you of information or instructions vital to the operation or maintenance of the equipment.

IMPORTANT
Servicing requires extreme care and knowledge and should be performed only by a qualified service technician. For service we suggest you return the tool to your nearest Ryobi AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER for repair. When servicing, use only identical Ryobi replacement parts.

WARNING: Observe all normal safety precautions related to avoiding electrical shock.

WARNING: Do not attempt to operate this tool until you have read thoroughly and understand completely all instructions, safety rules, etc. contained in this manual. Failure to comply can result in accidents involving fire, electric shock, or serious personal injury. Save this operator's manual and review frequently for continuing safe operation and instructing others who may use this tool.

WARNING:

The operation of any saw can result in foreign objects being thrown into your eyes, which can result in severe eye damage. Before beginning power tool operation, always wear safety goggles or safety glasses with side shields and a full face shield when needed. We recommend Wide Vision Safety Mask for use over eyeglasses or standard safety glasses with side shields.

Look for this symbol to point out important safety precautions. It means attention!!! Your safety is involved.

Safety is a combination of common sense, staying alert, and knowing how your table saw works. Read this manual to understand this saw.

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS

1. KNOW YOUR POWER TOOL. Read the operator's manual carefully. Learn the saw's applications and limitations as well as the specific potential hazards related to this tool.
2. GUARD AGAINST ELECTRICAL SHOCK BY PREVENTING BODY CONTACT WITH GROUNDED SURFACES. For example; pipes, radiators, ranges, refrigerator enclosures.
3. GROUND YOUR SAW. Make sure that your saw is properly polarized with an approved ground connection.
4. ALWAYS KEEP THE BLADE GUARD AND RIVING KNIFE (SPLITTER) IN PLACE and in working order.
5. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN. Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents. DO NOT leave tools or pieces of wood on the saw while it is in operation.
6. AVOID DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT. Don't use power tools in damp or wet locations or expose to rain. Keep work area well lit.
7. KEEP CHILDREN AND VISITORS AWAY. All visitors should wear safety glasses and be kept a safe distance from work area. Do not let visitors contact tool or extension cord while operating.
8. MAKE WORKSHOP CHILD-PROOF with padlocks or master switches, or by removing starter keys.
9. DON'T FORCE TOOL. It will do the job better and safer at the feed rate for which it was designed.
10. USE RIGHT TOOL. Don't force tool or attachment to do a job it was not designed for. Don't use it for a purpose not intended.
11. DRESS PROPERLY. Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, neckties, or jewelry. They can get caught and draw you into moving parts. Rubber gloves and non-skid footwear are recommended when working outdoors. Also wear protective hair covering to contain long hair.
12. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WITH SIDE SHIELDS. Everyday eyeglasses have only impact-resistant lenses; they are NOT safety glasses.
13. PROTECT YOUR LUNGS. Wear a face or dust mask if the cutting operation is dusty.
14. PROTECT YOUR HEARING. Wear hearing protection during extended periods of operation.
15. DON'T ABUSE CORD. Never yank cord to disconnect from receptacle. Keep cord from heat, oil and sharp edges.
16. DON'T OVER-REACH. Keep proper footing and balance at all times.
17. MAINTAIN TOOLS WITH CARE. Keep tools sharp and clean for better and safer performance. Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.
18. DISCONNECT TOOLS. When not in use, before servicing, or when changing attachments, blades, bits, cutters, etc., all tools should be disconnected.
19. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES. Form habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before turning it on.
20. AVOID ACCIDENTAL STARTING. Be sure switch is off when plugging in.
21. MAKE SURE YOUR EXTENSION CORD IS IN GOOD CONDITION. When using an extension cord, be sure to use one heavy enough to carry the current your product will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage resulting in loss of power and overheating. A wire gage size (A.W.G.) of at least 14 is recommended for an extension cord 25 feet or less in length. If in doubt, use the next heavier gage. The smaller the gage number, the heavier the cord. See Extension Cord Caution.
22. USE OUTDOOR EXTENSION CORDS. When tool is used outdoors, use only extension cords with approved ground connection that are intended for use outdoors and so marked.
23. KEEP BLADES CLEAN AND SHARP. Sharp blades minimize stalling and kickback.
24. KEEP HANDS AWAY FROM CUTTING AREA. Keep hands away from blades. Do not reach underneath work or around or over the blade while blade is rotating. Do not attempt to remove cut material when blade is moving.

WARNING: Blades coast after turn off.

25. NEVER USE IN AN EXPLOSIVE ATMOSPHERE. Normal sparking of the motor could ignite fumes.
26. INSPECT TOOL CORDS PERIODICALLY. If damaged, have repaired by a qualified service technician at an authorized service facility. The conductor with insulation having an outer surface that is green with or without yellow stripes is the equipment-grounding conductor. If repair or replacement of the electric cord or plug is necessary, do not connect the equipment-grounding conductor to a live terminal. Repair or replace a damaged or worn cord immediately. Stay constantly aware of cord location and keep it well away from the rotating blade.
27. INSPECT EXTENSION CORDS PERIODICALLY and replace if damaged.
28. KEEP TOOL DRY, CLEAN AND FREE FROM OIL AND GREASE. Always use a clean cloth when cleaning. Never use brake fluids, gasoline, petroleum-based products, or any solvents to clean tool.
29. STAY ALERT AND EXERCISE CONTROL. Watch what you are doing and use common sense. Do not operate tool when you are tired. Do not rush.
30. CHECK DAMAGED PARTS. Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended function. Check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is damaged must be properly repaired or replaced by an authorized service center to avoid risk of personal injury.
31. DO NOT USE TOOL IF SWITCH DOES NOT TURN IT ON AND OFF. Have defective switches replaced by an authorized service center.
32. GUARD AGAINST KICKBACK. Kickback occurs when the blade stalls rapidly and workpiece is driven back towards the operator. It can pull your hand into the blade resulting in serious personal injury. Stay out of blade path and turn switch off immediately if blade binds or stalls.
33. USE RIP FENCE. Always use a fence or straight edge guide when ripping.
34. SUPPORT LARGE PANELS. To minimize risk of blade pinching and kickback, always support large panels.
35. BEFORE MAKING A CUT, BE SURE ALL ADJUSTMENTS ARE SECURE.
36. USE ONLY CORRECT BLADES. Do not use blades with incorrect size holes. Never use blade washers or bolts that are defective or incorrect. The maximum blade capacity of your saw is 10 in. (254 mm).
37. USE RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES. The use of improper accessories may cause risk of injury.
38. NEVER STAND ON TOOL. Serious injury could occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting tool is unintentionally contacted.
39. USE THE RIGHT DIRECTION OF FEED. Feed work into a blade or cutter against the direction of rotation of blade or cutter only.
40. NEVER LEAVE TOOL RUNNING UNATTENDED. TURN POWER OFF. Don't leave tool until it comes to a complete stop.
41. AVOID CUTTING NAILS. Inspect for and remove all nails from lumber before cutting.
42. NEVER TOUCH BLADE or other moving parts during use.
43. NEVER START A TOOL WHEN ANY ROTATING COMPONENT IS IN CONTACT WITH THE WORKPIECE.
44. DO NOT OPERATE THIS TOOL WHILE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS, ALCOHOL, OR ANY MEDICATION.
45. GROUND ALL TOOLS. If tool is equipped with three-prong plug, it should be plugged into a three-hole electrical receptacle.
46. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS. Refer to them frequently and use to instruct other users. If you loan someone this tool, loan them these instructions also.

WARNING: When servicing use only identical Ryobi replacement parts. Use of any other parts may create a hazard or cause product damage.

WARNING: Remove all fences and auxiliary tables before transporting saw. Failure to do so can result in an accident causing possible serious personal injury.

WARNING: Some dust created by power sanding, sawing, grinding, drilling, and other construction activities contains chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. Some examples of these chemicals are: lead from lead-based paints, crystalline silica from bricks and cement and other masonry products, and arsenic and chromium from chemically-treated lumber. Your risk from these exposures varies, depending on how often you do this type of work. To reduce your exposure to these chemicals: work in a well ventilated area, and work with approved safety equipment, such as those dust masks that are specially designed to filter out microscopic particles.

1. ALWAYS USE BLADE GUARD, RIVING KNIFE AND ANTI-KICKBACK PAWLS on all "through-sawing" operations. Through-sawing operations are those in which the blade cuts completely through the workpiece as in ripping or crosscutting. Keep the blade guard down, the anti-kickback pawls down, and the riving knife in place over the blade.
2. ALWAYS SECURE WORK firmly against rip fence or miter fence.
3. ALWAYS USE A PUSH STICK FOR RIPPING NARROW STOCK. A push stick is a device used to push a workpiece through the blade instead of using your hands. Size and shape can vary but the push stick must always be narrower than the workpiece to prevent the push stick from contacting the saw blade. When ripping narrow stock, always use a push stick, so your hand does not come close to the saw blade. Use a featherboard and push blocks for non-through cuts.
4. NEVER perform any operation "freehand" which means using only your hands to support or guide the workpiece. Always use either the rip fence or miter fence to position and guide the work.
5. NEVER stand or have any part of your body in line with the path of the saw blade.
6. NEVER reach behind, over, or within three inches of the blade or cutter with either hand for any reason.
7. MOVE THE RIP FENCE out of the way when cross-cutting.
8. NEVER use rip fence as cut-off gauge when cross-cutting.
9. NEVER attempt to free a stalled saw blade without first turning the saw OFF and disconnecting the saw from the power source.
10. PROVIDE ADEQUATE SUPPORT to the rear and sides of the saw table for wide or long work pieces. Use a sturdy "outrigger" support if a table extension more than 24 inches long is attached to the saw.
11. AVOID KICKBACKS (work thrown back toward you) by:
    1. Keeping blade sharp.
    2. Keeping rip fence parallel to the saw blade.
    3. Keeping riving knife, anti-kickback pawls, and blade guard in place and operating.
    4. Not releasing the work before it is pushed all the way past the saw blade using a push stick.
    5. Not ripping work that is twisted or warped or does not have a straight edge to guide along the fence.
12. AVOID AWKWARD OPERATIONS AND HAND POSITIONS where a sudden slip could cause your hand to move into the cutting tool.

Figure 1: Electrical

13. CHECK WITH A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN or service personnel if the grounding instructions are not completely understood or if in doubt as to whether the tool is properly grounded.
14. USE ONLY CORRECT ELECTRICAL DEVICES: 3-wire extension cords that have 3-prong grounding plugs and 3-pole receptacles that accept the tool's plug.
15. DO NOT MODIFY the plug provided. If it will not fit the outlet, have the proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.
16. USE ONLY RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES listed in this manual or addendums. Blades must be rated for at least 5,500 rpm. Use of accessories that are not listed may cause the risk of personal injury. Instructions for safe use of accessories are included with the accessory.
17. DOUBLE CHECK ALL SETUPS. Make sure blade is tight and not making contact with saw or workpiece before connecting to power supply.
18. MAKE SURE THE WORK AREA HAS AMPLE LIGHTING to see the work and that no obstructions will interfere with safe operation BEFORE performing any work using the table saw.
19. ALWAYS TURN OFF SAW before disconnecting it, to avoid accidental starting when reconnecting to power supply.
20. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS. Refer to them frequently and use to instruct other users. If you loan someone this tool, loan them these instructions also.

Anti-Kickback Pawls (Fingers)
Device which, when properly installed and maintained, is designed to stop the workpiece from being kicked back toward the front of the saw during a ripping operation.

Arbor
The shaft on which a blade or cutting tool is mounted.

Bevel Cut
A cutting operation made with an angled blade.

Compound Cut
A cut with both a miter angle and a bevel angle.

Crosscut
A cutting or shaping operation made across the grain of the workpiece.

Dado
A non-through cut which produces a square sided notch or trough in the workpiece.

Featherboard
A device used to help control the workpiece by guiding it securely against the table or fence during any rip cut operation.

Freehand
Performing a cut without using a fence, miter gauge, fixture, hold down clamp, or other proper device to keep the workpiece from twisting during the cut.

Gum
A sticky, sap based residue from wood products.

Heel
Misalignment of the blade.

Kerf
The amount of material removed by the blade in a through cut or the slot produced by the blade in a non-through or partial cut.

Kickback
An uncontrolled grabbing and throwing of the workpiece back toward the front of the saw. Associated with the workpiece closing the kerf and pinching the blade or otherwise placing tension on the blade.

Leading End
The end of the workpiece which, during a rip type operation, is pushed into the cutting tool first.

Miter Cut
A cutting operation made with the wood at any angle other than 90 degrees.

Molding
A cut which produces a special shape in the workpiece, used for joining or decoration.

Non-Through Cuts
Any cutting operation where the blade does not extend completely through the thickness of the workpiece.

Push Block
A device used to feed the workpiece through the saw, except during narrow ripping type operations where a push stick should be used. It also helps keep the operator's hands well away from the blade.

Push Stick
A device used to feed the workpiece through the saw to help keep the operator's hands well away from the blade.

Rabbet
A notch in the edge of a workpiece.

Resin
A sticky, sap base substance that has hardened.

Ripping Or Rip Cut
A cutting or shaping operation made along the length or with the grain of the workpiece.

Riving Knife
Also known as a spreader or splitter. A metal piece, slightly thinner than the saw blade which helps keep the kerf open and prevent kickback.

Revolutions Per Minute (RPM)
The number of turns completed by a spinning object in one minute.

Saw Blade Path
The area over, under, behind, or in front of the blade. As it applies to the workpiece, that area which will be, or has been, cut by the blade.

Set
The distance that the tip of the sawblade tooth is bent (or set) outward from the face of the blade.

Throw-Back
Throwing of a workpiece in a manner similar to a kickback. Usually associated with a cause other than the kerf closing, such as a workpiece being dropped onto the blade or being placed inadvertently in contact with the blade.

Through Sawing
Any cutting operation where the blade extends completely through the thickness of the workpiece.

Trailing End
The workpiece end last cut by the blade in a ripping operation.

Workpiece
The item on which the cutting operation is being done. The surfaces of a workpiece are commonly referred to as faces, ends and edges.

Your Model BT3000 Table Saw is shipped complete in one carton and includes two table extensions, a rip fence, a miter fence with adjusting clamp, a blade guard and rails. Some models of the BT3000 may also include a workstand with a separate parts list, owner's operating manual, and assembly instructions.

Separate all parts from packing materials and check each one with the illustration and the list of Loose Parts to make sure all items are accounted for, before discarding any packing material.

If any parts are missing, do not attempt to assemble the table saw, plug in the power cord, or turn the switch on until the missing parts are obtained and are installed correctly. Call 1-800-525-2579 in the United States or 1-800-265-6778 in Canada for assistance if any parts are missing or damaged.

The saw is factory set for accurate cutting. After assembling it, check for accuracy. If shipping has influenced the settings, refer to specific procedures explained in the operation and maintenance sections of this manual.

TOOLS NEEDED

Figure 2: Tools Needed

LIST OF LOOSE PARTS FOR TABLE SAW

Figure 3: Loose Parts Key No. Description Quan. 1 Rip Scale Indicator 1 2 Screw 1 3 Hex Nut 1 4 End Plug 4 5 Rip Fence 1 6 Sliding Miter Table 1 7 Accessory Table 1 8 Blade Guard With Riving Knife And Anti-Kickback Pawls 1 9 Large wrench 1 10 Small wrench 1 11 Rear Rail 1 Key No. Description Quan. 12 Front Rail 1 13 Miter Fence Holder With Adjusting Clamp 1 14 Miter Fence With Miter Indicator 1 15 3/32 in. Allen Wrench (Included) 1 16 1/8 in. Allen Wrench (Included) 1 17 5/32 in. Allen Wrench (Included) 1 18 3/16 in. Allen Wrench (Included) 1 19 Instructional Video (Not Shown) 20 Operator's Manual (Not Shown) 21 Warranty Registration Card (Not Shown) 22 Authorized Service Center Listing (Not Shown)

Your saw is designed to perform as a versatile, accurate, precision cutting tool that is easy to operate. It is equipped with the following features for convenience, ease of use and high-quality performance:

• a combination saw blade
• a bevel indicator to set the exact angle of the blade, with locking lever
• an adjustable and reversible sliding miter table
• an adjustable miter fence with miter indicator
• an adjustable accessory table
• an adjustable rip fence with scale indicator
• an adjustable riving knife (splitter) and blade guard with anti-kickback pawls
• front and rear guide rails with an easy-to-read scale on front rail
• a dust exhaust that can be adapted to a standard shop vacuum
• blade adjusting handle to set depth of cut
• switch with lockable cover plate to help prevent unauthorized use

These features provide ease of cutting with all types of wood.

WARNING: Before attempting to use your table saw, familiarize yourself with all operating features and safety requirements.

Figure 4: Table Saw Features

WARNING: Although some of the illustrations in this manual are shown with the blade guard removed for clarity, do not operate the saw without the blade guard unless specifically instructed to do so.

A. OPERATING COMPONENTS

The upper portion of the blade projects up through the table, surrounded by an insert called the throat plate. To cut wood at a bevel, the blade must be tilted, using the blade adjustment handle, scale and bevel indicator found on the front of the cabinet. Inside the cabinet, adjustable positive stops are provided for 0 and 45 degrees.

The sliding miter table assembly is used for all crosscutting operations. The miter fence is easily adjusted to cut wood at an angle by loosening the adjusting clamp, setting the fence to the miter scale and retightening the clamp. The sliding miter table, which rests on a base mounted on the rails, can be repositioned along the rails for wide work. It can be reversed so the projecting base is in the back. It can also be moved from the right side to the left side as needed. With the miter fence removed the miter table offers additional support for other operations such as ripping.

Your saw includes a rip fence and an accessory table. The accessory table can be moved from the right side of the saw to the left side as needed. The rip fence is used to position work that will be cut lengthwise. A scale on the front rail shows the distance between the rip fence and the blade.

The riving knife is a metal device directly behind and above the blade. It is used to help keep the cut wood from binding together and causing possible kickback. It is very important to use the riving knife for all through-sawing operations. The anti-kickback pawls are toothed plates mounted on the riving knife. Their teeth point away from the work in case the work should be pulled back, toward the operator. Then the teeth dig into the wood to help prevent or reduce the possibility of kickback.

Your Ryobi BT3000 table saw features a receptacle on the right side of the cabinet that permits use of accessories. Check with your nearest Ryobi dealer for more information. Use only accessories that are listed for use with this tool. When using a listed accessory, unplug the saw motor cord and use the receptacle and BT3000 main power switch to operate the accessory.

B. POWER SWITCH

Your BT3000 is equipped with a switch that utilizes a lockable switch cover to prevent unauthorized use. With the saw turned OFF, a padlock can be used to secure the switch cover over the switch. This prevents anyone from starting your saw without removing the padlock, lifting the switch cover, and pressing the switch button.

TO TURN YOUR SAW ON: Lift switch cover. Press switch button. Lower switch cover. Return to Contents TO TURN YOUR SAW OFF: Press or push outside of switch cover, or Lift switch cover and press switch button. Return to Contents TO LOCK YOUR SAW SWITCH: Raise switch cover. Align metal loop through slot in switch cover while lowering switch cover. Place shackle of padlock (not provided) through the metal loop and close padlock.

Figure 5: Switch With Cover

WARNING: ALWAYS make sure your workpiece is not in contact with the blade before operating the switch to start the tool. Failure to heed this warning may cause the workpiece to be kicked back toward the operator and result in serious personal injury.

WARNING: To reduce the risk of accidental starting, ALWAYS make sure the switch is in the OFF position before plugging tool into the power source.

C. BLADES

It is recommended that you use only the RYOBI 10 in. (254 mm) Combination Blade, which is specifically designed, tuned and balanced for use with the BT3000 Table Saw. You will get maximum performance with the following features:

CAUTION: Be sure to use only blades that are rated for at least 5,500 RPM and recommended for use on this saw. Check with your Ryobi dealer.

Figure 6: RYOBI 10 in. (254 mm) Combination Blade

D. SPEED AND WIRING

The no-load speed of your table saw is approximately 4,800 rpm. The speed will not remain constant but will be less under a load. The wiring in a shop is as important as the motor's horsepower rating. A line intended for lights only WILL NOT PROPERLY CARRY A POWER TOOL MOTOR. Wire that is heavy enough for a short distance will be too light for a greater distance. A line that can support one power tool may not be able to support two or three tools.

WARNING: To prevent possible electrical hazards, have a qualified electrician check the line if you are not certain that it is properly wired.

WARNING: Do not connect to power supply until assembly is complete. Failure to comply could result in accidental starting and possible serious injury. Return to Contents A. FRAME Unpack the saw and lay out all loose parts on a clean surface. Inspect the parts to make sure that no parts are missing and all the components are ready for assembly. Each unit also includes two wrenches for easy blade removal or installation. Secure the saw to the RYOBI table saw stand or a workbench capable of supporting the load of the saw plus any workpiece. This is necessary to avoid any risk of the saw tipping over. See work stand operator's manual inside work stand box for assembly of models that apply. Make sure there is ample clearance around the saw for the work materials. Bolt the saw to the stand or workbench using four bolts and hex nuts; place one set in each corner and tighten securely.

See Figure 3 for descriptions and references to loose parts Figure 7: Loose Parts

B. RAILS, TABLES AND FENCES Return to Contents TO INSTALL FRONT AND BACK RAILS Position end plugs on both rails and secure in place by tapping with a block of wood or a rubber mallet. Loosen the front rail clamps one half turn from the tightened position. Loosen the square rail holder nut one-fourth (¼) turn to allow the front rail to slide over it. See Figures 8 and 9. Mount the front rail with the scale facing the outside toward the operator. Check to make sure the rail clamps will securely clamp the rail before sliding the entire assembly into position. If not, tighten the square rail holder nut one-fourth (¼) turn and recheck. Slide the rail into position over both clamps and secure. Mount the rear rail, following the same clamping procedure as shown for the front rail. Orient the rear rail as shown in Figure 9.

Figure 8: Front Rail Figure 9: Rear Rail

Return to Contents TO INSTALL MITER TABLE AND FENCE Install the sliding miter table assembly over the front and rear rails. See Figure 10. Check that it slides easily on the rails. Push both front miter locking clamps down evenly on each side to secure. Repeat for both rear miter locking clamps. NOTE: DO NOT force miter locking clamps fully down. Tighten only to flat "seated" position. To install the miter fence holder to the miter fence, loosen the attachment bolt by turning the adjusting clamp (the knob on top) counterclockwise. Make sure the adjusting clamp is loose enough so the bolt has enough clearance to slide in the table slot. Slide the tabs into the grooves in the miter fence. See Figure 11. Mount the miter fence to the miter table by installing the locator pin (below the miter fence) into hole "A" or "B." (Hole "A" is closest to the blade.) At the same time, place the attachment bolt in the slot. Secure the adjusting clamp, but do not tighten. NOTE: Hole "A" should be used for short pieces of wood and hole "B" should be used for long or wide pieces of wood. Adjust the miter indicator to the scale. Securely tighten the adjusting clamp. Figure 10: Miter Table Base Installation Return to Contents TO INSTALL ACCESSORY TABLE AND RIP FENCE Place the accessory table on the front and back rails, fitting the lips into the top slot of the rear rail. Position the slot on the underside of the accessory table onto the front rail and tighten the lever securely. Remove the scale indicator assembly from the plastic bag and install on either side of the rip fence. The pan head screw (#8-32 x 1/2 in.) goes on the outside of the front block. The scale indicator and hex nut (#8-32) go immediately behind the front lip of the front block. To install the rip fence, place the rear lip on the rear rail and pull slightly toward the front of the unit. Lower front end onto the guide surfaces on top of the front rail. Check for a smooth gliding action. Swing the locking handle down to automatically align and secure the fence. When securely locked, the locking handle should point downward. Figure 11: Miter Fence Installation Figure 12: Rip Fence Installation Return to Contents C. BLADE AND GUARD ASSEMBLY WARNING: Do not connect to power supply until assembly is complete. Failure to comply could result in accidental starting and possible serious injury. Return to Contents TO CHECK SAW BLADE INSTALLATION To check the saw blade, first remove the three screws holding the throat plate in place. Remove the throat plate. See Figure 13. Make sure the bevel locking lever is securely pushed to the left. Raise the blade arbor to its full height by turning the blade adjusting handle clockwise. Using the smaller hex wrench, insert the flat open end into the flats on the arbor shaft as shown. Insert the larger hex wrench over the hex nut, and, holding both wrenches firmly, pull the larger wrench forward to the front of the machine to loosen and push to tighten. Make sure the blade nut is securely tightened. Do not overtighten. NOTE: Arbor shaft has left hand threads. Check all clearances for free blade rotation. See To Set the Scale to the Blade in the Operation Section. In cutting operations, the scale will be set to the side of the blade where the cut will be measured and made. Figure 13: Blade Installation Figure 14: Blade Tightening Return to Contents TO INSTALL BLADE GUARD ASSEMBLY Move the bevel locking lever to the right for angle mode. Slowly turn the blade adjustment handle to put the blade at 30 degrees. The handle will "pop out" slightly as it engages the clutch. Holding the blade adjusting handle with one hand, use the other hand to push the bevel locking lever firmly to the left to lock the bevel angle. Raise the blade by turning the blade adjustment handle clockwise. Using the small hex wrench, install the blade guard assembly by loosening the two attachment hex nuts enough to slide the riving knife down between the shims. Do not remove the hex nuts. See Figure 15. Partially retighten the two attachment nuts. Check the blade and riving knife alignment. Make sure riving knife clears blade by 1/8 in. See Figure 27. Correctly align the blade and riving knife as shown, repeating step 4 as needed. Tighten attachment nuts securely. If riving knife is not positioned correctly with blade up, it could contact saw table when blade is lowered and restrict blade elevation. Blade alignment with the riving knife can be adjusted for different blade widths. Refer to Settings and Adjustments in the Operations Section. Before continuing, read "To Check, Replace or Adjust the Riving Knife and Blade Guard Assembly" to make sure of proper riving knife alignment. Checkthe blade guard assembly for clearances and free movement. Reinstall the throat plate into the opening, lower the blade and secure the three attachment screws. Tighten the screws securely. Figure 15: Blade Guard Installation Return to Contents OPERATION A. GENERAL INFORMATION GROUNDING The saw's three-prong plug must be plugged into a matching outlet that is properly installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes and ordinances. Improper connection of the equipment can result in electric shock. Check with an electrician or service personnel if you are unsure about proper grounding. Do not modify the plug; if it will not fit the outlet, have the correct outlet installed by a qualified electrician. WARNING: If an extension cord is used, make sure it is a grounded/ three-prong plug and is adequate to prevent excessive voltage loss. See Extension Cord Caution. Figure 16: Three-Prong Safety Plug WARNING: The saw's motor cord must only be plugged into the receptacle provided on the saw which is controlled by the saw's master switch. See Figure 17. Never plug the motor cord directly into an extension cord as this will prevent the ability to switch the saw OFF. Figure 17: Motor Cord Return to Contents TYPES OF CUTS There are six basic types of cuts: the straight cross cut, the miter cut, the rip cut, the bevel cross cut, the bevel rip cut and the bevel miter cut (compound miter cut). All other cuts are of these basic six. Operating procedures for making each kind of cut are given later in this section. WARNING: Always make sure the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls are in place and working properly when making these cuts to avoid possible injury. Cross cuts are straight, 90 degree cuts made across the grain of the workpiece. The wood is fed into the cut at a 90 degree angle to the blade and the blade is vertical. See Figures 18 and 36. Miter cuts are made with the wood at any angle other than 90 degrees. See Figures 19 and 38. (The wood is angled to the blade.) Miter cuts may tend to "creep" away from the miter fence during cutting. This can be controlled by holding the workpiece securely against the miter fence. The RYOBI Miter Clamp Kit has been designed and tested for this purpose. See the Accessories Section. Figure 18: Cross Cut Figure 19: Miter Rip cuts are made with the grain of the wood. See Figure 20. To help control kickback while making a rip cut, keep the anti-kickback pawls properly maintained and adjusted, make sure one side of the wood rides firmly against the fence, and ALWAYS use a push stick with small or narrow pieces of wood. NOTE: Push sticks should also be used to finish a cut when ripping long narrow pieces of wood, to prevent your hands from getting close to the blade. See Figure 39. Bevel cross cuts are made with an angled blade, cutting wood across the grain. Bevel rip cuts are made with an angled blade, cutting wood with the grain. NOTE: The fence must always be on the left side of the blade when making bevel cuts. See Figures 21 and 41. Figure 20: Rip Cut Figure 21: Bevel Rip Cut And Bevel Cross Cut Compound or bevel miter cuts are made with an angled blade on wood that is angled to the blade. Be thoroughly familiar with making straight cross cuts, bevel cross cuts, and miter cuts before trying a compound miter cut. See Figure 22. Figure 22: Compound Miter Cut Return to Contents CUTTING TIPS Dado and rabbet cuts are non-through cuts which can be either rip cuts or cross cuts. Carefully read and understand all sections of this operator's manual before attempting any operation. WARNING: All blades must be rated for at least 5,500 RPM to prevent possible injury. The kerf (the cut made by the blade in the wood) will be wider than the blade to avoid overheating or binding. Make allowance for the kerf when measuring wood. Make sure the kerf is made on the waste side of the measuring line. Cut the wood with the finish side up. Knockout any loose knots with a hammer before making the cut. Always provide proper support for the wood as it comes out of the saw. Refer to ACCESSORIES and check with your Ryobi dealer for information about recommended blades. Return to Contents B. SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS TO REMOVE THE BLADE Use the two wrenches supplied with the saw in this procedure to replace the blade. WARNING: Unplug your saw and make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. Raise the blade guard. Remove the three screws from the throat plate and lift the throat plate out of the slot. Push the bevel locking lever to the left for elevation mode. Raise the blade to its full height by turning the blade adjusting handle clockwise. Place the open end of the small hex wrench into the slot beside the blade. The wrench will fit over two flats on the arbor (blade shaft). See Figure 24. Fit the large hex wrench onto the arbor nut. Turn clockwise and remove the nut, taking care not to drag your knuckles across the blade. NOTE: The arbor nut has left-hand threads. Remove the outer blade washer from the arbor and then remove the blade. Make sure that inner blade washer and both spacers are tight against arbor shoulder. Replace with a new blade. Make sure the blade teeth are pointing forward, toward incoming work. Put the outer blade washer and arbor nut back on, aligning with the flats on the arbor. Tighten the nut with a counter-clockwise turn. NOTE: Use care not to cross thread arbor nut. Do not overtighten. Rotate the blade by hand to make sure it is turning freely. Check the riving knife and adjust if needed (See next procedure). Insert the throat plate, lower the blade, then secure the throat plate with the three throat plate screws. Tighten the screws firmly. Push bevel locking lever to the left to allow blade elevation and lowering. Figure 23: Overview of Saw Figure 24: Arbor and Washer Figure 25: Blade Movement Directions Return to Contents TO CHECK, REPLACE OR ADJUST THE RIVING KNIFE AND BLADE GUARD ASSEMBLY The riving knife is mounted between several shims that can be relocated as needed to center the knife behind the blade. It is held in place by two bolts and hex nuts at its base. The bolts are set in slots that permit front-to-back adjustment. WARNING: Unplug your saw and make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. Remove the throat plate. With blade guard up, make sure the riving knife is placed at least 1/8 inch from the outer points of the blade. See Figure 27. Then make sure it is centered within the width of the blade. See Figure 28. If either placement is wrong, adjust with the following steps. Raise the saw blade by pushing the bevel locking lever to the left and rotating the blade adjustment handle clockwise. Put the saw in Angle mode by moving the bevel locking lever to the right. Slowly turn the blade adjusting handle until the bevel indicator is at a 30 degree angle. Lock the angle by holding the blade adjusting handle with one hand and returning the bevel locking lever to the left with the other. With the box end of the small hex wrench, loosen the two nuts at the base of the riving knife. DO NOT REMOVE NUTS. Remove the riving knife/guard assembly. Rearrange the riving knife between the shims to achieve the correct centering. WARNING: Properly align riving knife. Improperly aligned riving knife can cause blade to bind which will increase risk of kickback. Adjust the bolts front-to-back as needed to place the riving knife approximately 1/8 inch from the blade's outer points. Tighten with the small hex wrench to secure the riving knife and blade guard assembly. Bring the blade back to the desired angle and height. Insert the throat plate, lower the blade, and secure the throat plate with the three throat plate screws. Tighten the screws firmly. Figure 26: Blade and Riving Knife Figure 27: Riving Knife and Blade Placement Figure 28: Shims and Riving Knife Return to Contents KICKBACK See Figure 29. Kickback can occur when the blade stalls or binds, kicking the workpiece back toward the front of the saw with great force and speed. Kickback can cause serious injury. Precautions must be taken to avoid the risk of kickback. AVOID: making a cut with incorrect blade depth sawing into knots or nails in the workpiece twisting the wood while making a cut failing to properly position riving knife making a cut with a dull, gummed-up, or improperly set blade failing to support work forcing a cut cutting warped or wet lumber not following correct operating procedures failing to use the anti-kickback pawls using the wrong blade for the type of cut Return to Contents TO AVOID KICKBACK Use these guidelines to avoid kickback: Always use the correct blade depth setting. The top point of the blade teeth should clear the workpiece, 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch. Inspect the work for knots or nails before beginning a cut. Knock out any loose knots with a hammer. Never saw into a loose knot or nail. Make straight cuts. Always use the rip fence when rip cutting. This helps prevent twisting the wood in the cut. Always use clean, sharp and properly-set blades. Never make cuts with dull blades. To avoid pinching the blade, support the work properly before beginning a cut. When making a cut, use steady, even pressure. Never force cuts. Do not cut wet or warped lumber. Always hold your workpiece firmly with both hands or use push blocks, push sticks, and featherboards to keep your body in a balanced position to be able to resist kickback should it occur. Always use push blocks, push sticks, or featherboards when making dado and other non-through cuts to avoid the risk of serious injury. WARNING: Never stand directly in line with the blade or allow hands to come closer than 3 inches to the blade. Do not reach over or across the blade. Failure to comply can result in serious personal injury. Use the right type of blade for the cut being made. Return to Contents TO MAKE A PUSH STICK A push stick is a device used to safely push a workpiece through the blade instead of using your hands. Push sticks in various sizes and shapes can be made from scrap wood. The stick must always be narrower than the workpiece. If it is too wide, it may jam on the rip fence or blade. When ripping narrow stock, always use a push stick so your hand does not come close to the saw blade. A simple push stick design is shown in figure 30. Remember that the stick must always be narrower than the workpiece to avoid risk of injury. Figure 29: Anti-kickback Practices Figure 30: Push Block And Push Stick Designs

FEATHERBOARD

A featherboard is a device used to help control the workpiece by guiding it securely against the table or fence. Featherboards are especially useful when ripping small workpieces and for completing non-through cuts. Featherboards are made from a solid piece of straight grain wood, free from splits or knots.

HOW TO MAKE A FEATHERBOARD

The featherboard is an excellent project for your BT3000. Select a solid piece of lumber approximately 3/4 in. thick, 3-5/8 in. wide and 18 inches long. Mark the center of the width on one end of the stock. Miter one-half of the width to 30° and miter the other half of the same end to 45°. See the section on miter cuts. Mark the board from the point at 6 in., 8 in., 10 in. and 12 in. Drill a 3/8 in. hole at the 8 in., 10 in., and 12 in. marks as indicated in figure 31. Prepare the saw for ripping. Set the rip fence to allow approximately a 1/4 in. "finger" to be cut in the stock. Feed the stock only to the mark previously made at 6 inches. Turn the saw OFF and allow the blade to completely stop rotating before removing the stock. Reset the rip fence and cut spaced rips into the workpiece to allow approximately 1/4 in. fingers and 1/8 in. spaces between the fingers. See Figure 31.

HOW TO MOUNT A FEATHERBOARD

Remove the adjusting clamp knob, bolt and washer from the Miter Fence Holder. Place the bolt through one of the holes in the featherboard. Positioning the featherboard will depend on the placement of the bolt and the position of the sliding miter table on the rails. Place the washer on the bolt and attach the adjusting clamp knob, loosely. Position the featherboard with the hex head of the bolt in the miter table slot but do not tighten. Completely lower the saw blade. Position the rip fence to the desired adjustment for the cut to be performed and lock. Place the workpiece against the fence and over the saw blade area. Adjust the featherboard to apply resistance to the workpiece just forward of the blade. Securely tighten the adjusting clamp knob to secure the featherboard in place. Attach a C-clamp to further secure the featherboard to the edge of the Sliding Miter Table.

WARNING: DO NOT locate the featherboard to the rear of the workpiece. Kickback can result from the featherboard pinching the workpiece and binding the blade in the saw kerf if positioned improperly. Failure to heed this warning can result in serious personal injury.

Figure 31 : Featherboard

TO ADJUST THE BLADE DEPTH The blade depth should be set so that the outer points of the blade are higher than the workpiece by approximately 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. but the lowest points (gullets) are below the top surface. See Figure 32. WARNING: Unplug the saw and make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. Push the bevel locking lever to the left for elevation mode. Raise the blade by turning the blade adjusting handle clockwise or lower it by turning the handle counter-clockwise. Return to Contents TO ADJUST THE BLADE ANGLE See Figure 33. WARNING: Unplug the saw and make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. Push the bevel locking lever to the right for angle mode. Angle the blade by turning the blade adjusting handle until the bevel indicator shows the correct angle. Return the bevel locking lever securely to the left to lock the angle, while holding the blade adjusting handle in place. Return to Contents TO SET THE SCALE TO THE BLADE The scale is usable from 0-24 in. to the right side of the blade and 0-21 in. on the left side of the blade. The operator can select any desired dimension within those ranges. Use the following steps to set the scale to the blade and scale indicator. Begin with the blade at a zero angle (straight up). See Figure 34. Loosen the rip fence by raising the locking handle. Using a framing square, set the rip fence 2 in. from the blade tip edge. Loosen both front and rear rails by lifting the front and rear rail clamps. See Figure 33. Adjust the front rail until the 2 in. mark is placed at the scale indicator. Align the rear rail to the front rail. Tighten the rails and check the dimension and the rip fence in both directions. WARNING: Blades coast after turn off. Possible serious injury can occur if hands come in contact with blade.

Figure 32: Correct Blade Depth Figure 33: Angling the Blade Figure 34: Setting the Scale Indicator

TO LOCK MITER TABLE See Figure 35. The miter table slides to let the operator slide the workpiece across the saw. A miter slide lock is mounted on the front of the mitertable to lock it in place. The miter slide lock is placed in a slot on the base to align the miter table with the front edge of the saw table. The sliding miter table should be locked for any cut in which the operator prefers a fixed table. To lock the miter table with the base projecting to the front, place miter slide lock in the back slot on the base. To lock the miter table with the base projecting to the back, place miter slide lock in the front slot on the base. Return to Contents C. MAKING CUTS The blade provided with your saw is a high-quality combination blade suitable for ripping and crosscut operations. Check with your local Ryobi dealer for other recommended blades. WARNING: All blades must be rated for at least 5,500 RPM to prevent possible injury. Return to Contents TO MAKE A STRAIGHT CROSS CUT See Figure 36. WARNING: Never use rip fence as cut-off gauge when crosscutting. WARNING: Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. It is recommended you make test cuts on scrap wood. Remove the rip fence by lifting the locking handle. Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece. Set the miter fence to 90 degrees with the quick-stop or the miter scale. Make sure the miter fence won't touch the blade while feeding the wood. Make a trial pass of the miter table. The miter fence should not contact the blade. Loosen the adjusting clamp to move the fence if needed. Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind the saw for the cut work. See Quick Fold Table in Accessories. Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning on the saw. See Figure 36. To turn saw ON, lift switch cover and press switch button. Then lower switch cover. To turn saw OFF, (A) press or push outside of switch cover, or (B) lift switch cover and press switch button. See Figure 37. NOTE: To prevent unauthorized use, lock your saw in the OFF position with a padlock as shown in figure 37. Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the miter table to feed the workpiece into the blade. Hold the work firmly against the miter fence with both hands and push the miter table to feed the work into the blade.

Figure 35: Locking the Miter Table Figure 36: Making a Straight Cross Cut Figure 37: Switch With Cover

TO MAKE A MITER CUT
See Figure 38.

It is recommended you make test cuts on scrap wood.

WARNING: Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. Remove the rip fence by lifting the locking handle. Loosen the adjusting clamp to set the desired angle of the miter fence. Place the miter indicator on the miter fence to the desired angle on the miter table. Retighten the clamp. Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind the saw for the cut work. See Quick Fold Table in Accessories. Make sure the miter fence will not contact the blade while feeding the wood. Make a trial pass of the miter table. The miter fence should not contact the blade. Loosen the adjusting clamp to move it away from the blade if needed. Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning on the saw. Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the miter table to feed the workpiece into the blade. Hold the work firmly against the miter fence with both hands, keeping well clear of the blade, and push the miter table to feed the work into the blade.

Figure 38: Making a Miter Cut

TO MAKE A STRAIGHT RIP CUT
See Figure 39.

It is recommended you make a test cut on scrap wood.

WARNING: Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. Remove the miter fence. Position accessory table and sliding miter table to provide the support necessary for the cut being performed. Securely lock the rip fence with the locking handle. Don't leave one side of saw unsupported. Position the rip fence the desired distance from the blade for the cut and securely lock the handle. Adjust the scale to zero at the cutting edge of the blade. Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind the saw for the cut work. See Quick Fold Table in Accessories. Use a push block or push stick to move the wood through the cut past the blade. NEVER PUSH A SMALL PIECE OF WOOD INTO THE BLADE WITH YOUR HAND, ALWAYS USE A PUSH STICK. The use of push blocks, push sticks, and featherboards are necessary when making non-through cuts. Stand to the side of the wood as it contacts the blade to reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur. NEVER STAND DIRECTLY IN THE LINE OF CUT. Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning on the saw. Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the workpiece into the blade.

Figure 39: Making a Straight Rip Cut

TO MAKE A BEVEL CROSS CUT
See Figure 40.

It is recommended that you place the piece to be saved on the left side of the blade and that you make a test cut on scrap wood.

WARNING: Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury.

Remove the rip fence by lifting the locking handle. Move the bevel locking lever to the right for Angle mode. Turn the blade adjustment handle until the bevel indicator is at the desired angle. Push the bevel locking lever securely to the left to lock the angle. Set the blade to the correct depth for the workpiece. Loosen the adjusting clamp on the miter fence. Set the miter fence to 90 degrees with either the quick-stop or the miter scale. Make sure the miter fence will not contact the blade as the wood feeds into the blade. Make a trial pass of the miter table. The end of the miter fence should not contact the blade. Loosen the adjusting clamp to move it away from the blade if needed. Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind the saw for the cut work. Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning on the saw. Let the blade build up to full speed before moving the miter table to feed the workpiece into the blade. Hold the work with both hands and push the miter table to feed the work into the blade.

Figure 40: Making a Bevel Cross Cut

TO MAKE A BEVEL RIP CUT
See Figure 41.

It is recommended that you place the piece to be saved on the left side of the blade and that you make a test cut on scrap wood.

WARNING: The rip fence must be on the left side of the blade to avoid trapping the wood and causing kickback.

WARNING: Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury.

Before making this cut, use scrap wood to make an insert 5 in. wide, 22 in. long, and 3/4 in. thick. You may want to make others that are more than 5 in. wide.

Remove miter fence, sliding miter table, and accessory table. Replace accessory table on the left side of blade. DO NOT Lock. Place the wooden insert between the accessory table and the saw table to support the workpiece. See Figure 41. Secure the wooden insert with screws as noted. Adjust the accessory table firmly against the wooden insert and lock securely. NOTE: The wooden insert should be attached with wood screws from the bottom, through the two holes provided in the casting. Securely trap the wooden insert between the accessory table and the saw table. Place sliding miter table on the right side of blade and lock securely. Attach the rip fence over the front and rear rails on the left side and lock securely. Reset the scale to the blade if needed. Move the bevel locking lever to the right for Angle mode. Turn the blade adjustment handle until the bevel indicator is at the desired angle. Push the bevel locking lever securely to the left to lock the angle. Position the rip fence the desired distance from the blade for the cut and lock securely. Place a support (the same height as saw table) behind the saw for the cut work. See Quick Fold Table in Accessories section. Use a push stick to move small pieces of wood past the blade. NEVER PUSH A SMALL PIECE OF WOOD INTO THE BLADE WITH YOUR HAND. Stand to the side of the wood as it contacts the blade to reduce the chance of injury should kickback occur. NEVER STAND DIRECTLY IN THE LINE OF CUT. Make sure the wood is clear of the blade before turning on the saw. Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the workpiece into the blade.

Figure 41: Making a Bevel Rip Cut

TO MAKE A COMPOUND MITER CUT

This cut is made with both the miter fence and the blade angled. Set the miter fence and the blade angle with the procedures given earlier.

The miter fence must be on the left side of the blade. It is highly recommended that you test the cut with a piece of scrap wood. Become thoroughly familiar with bevel cross cuts and miter cuts before attempting to perform a compound miter cut.

TO MAKE A LARGE PANEL CUT
See Figure 42

Make sure the saw is properly secured to a work surface so it will not tip over under the weight of a large panel.

WARNING: Make sure the blade guard assembly is installed and working properly to avoid serious personal injury. Raise the locking handle on the rip fence to allow the rails to move freely. Lift off the sliding miter table assembly by raising the miter locking clamps to release the grippers. Remove the accessory table by swinging out the lever and lifting the table up and out. Rotate the front rail clamps (under the front rail) to the left and slide the front rail to the side where the panel will rest. Lock the rail clamps after positioning the front rail. Rotate the rear rail clamps (underthe rear rail) to the left and position the rear rail to support the panel. Align the rear rail with the front rail. Lock the rail clamps after positioning the rear rail. Place the accessory table onto the rails far enough from the blade to help support the panel and lock securely. Place the sliding miter table assembly onto the rails and lock securely. The miter table can be rotated 180 degrees so the projecting base is at the back of the work surface so you won't run into it as you feed the panel into the blade. (Tables can be placed on either side of blade.) Position the rip fence the desired distance from the blade for the cut and securely lock the handle. Place a support behind the saw for the cut work. See Wide Table Kit and Quick Fold Table in Accessories. Make sure the panel is clear of the blade before turning on the saw. Let the blade build up to full speed before feeding the workpiece into the blade.

Figure 42: Large Panel Set-up

TO MAKE NON-THROUGH CUTS

Non-through cuts can be made with the grain (ripping) or across the grain (crosscut). The use of a non-through cut is essential to cutting grooves, rabbets, and dadoes. This is the only type cut that is made without the blade guard installed. Make sure the blade guard assembly is reinstalled upon completion of this type of cut. Read the appropriate section which describes the type of cut in addition to this section on non-through or dado cuts. For example, if your non-through cut is a straight cross cut, read and understand the section on straight cross cuts before proceeding.

WARNING: Unplug the saw to avoid possible injury. Remove the three screws holding the throat plate in place. Remove the throat plate. Raise the saw blade by pushing the bevel locking lever to the left and rotating the blade adjusting handle clockwise. Put the saw in Angle mode by pushing the bevel locking lever to the right. Turn the blade adjusting handle until the blade indicator shows a 30 degree angle. Push the bevel locking lever securely to the left to lock the angle. With the box end of the small hex wrench, loosen the two hex nuts at the base of the riving knife. DO NOT REMOVE HEX NUTS. Remove the riving knife/guard assembly. Retighten the two hex nuts on the base. Insert the throat plate. Bring the blade back to 90 degrees. Lower the blade to the correct height by turning the blade adjusting handle counterclockwise. Secure throat plate with the three screws. WARNING: Carefully check all set-ups and rotate the blade one full revolution to assure proper clearance before connecting saw to power source.

Figure 43: Making A Non-Through Cut

7. Always use push blocks, push sticks, and featherboards when making non-through cuts to avoid the risk of serious injury. See Figure 43.

WARNING: Never feed wood with your hands when making any non-through cut such as rabbets or dadoes.

8. When the cut is complete, unplug saw and raise the blade.
9. Remove the three screws holding the throat plate in place. Remove the throat plate.
10. Push the bevel locking lever to the right. Rotate the blade adjusting handle until the bevel indicator shows a 30 degree angle. Push the bevel locking lever securely to the left while holding the blade adjusting handle to lock the angle. Reinstall the blade guard assembly.
11. Retighten the nuts at the base of the riving knife. Check riving knife alignment to the blade and adjust shims if necessary.
12. Move the bevel locking lever to the right and rotate the blade back to 90 degrees. Push the lever to the left to lock the angle.
13. Insert the throat plate, lower the blade and secure with the three screws. Tighten them firmly.

TO MAKE DADO CUTS

A dado is a non-through cut and typically refers to a channel cut, both with the grain and across the grain. An optional Adjustable Dado (part number 4658718), Zero Clearance Throat Plate (part number 4070333), and Dado Throat Plate (part number 4070330) are available for your saw from your local Ryobi dealer or Ryobi Factory Service Center.

1. Unplug your saw.
2. Remove the riving knife and guard assembly. See Figure 15.
3. Retighten the two hex nuts on base assembly.
4. Remove the blade.
5. Remove the appropriate spacers on the blade arbor to get the correct width for the dado blade.
6. Mount the dado blade, using the instructions with the dado set.
7. Make sure the arbor nut is fully engaged and the arbor extends at least one full thread past asecurely tightened arbor nut.
8. When mounting dado blades, make sure both the inner blade washer and outer blade washer are used.
9. Replace the throat plate with optional Dado Throat Plate.

WARNING: Always put all spacers in proper location when changing back to saw blade. Failure to do so may result in possible injury and damage to the tool.

10. Always use push blocks, push sticks, or featherboards when making dado cuts to avoid the risk of serious injury.

WARNING: All blades must be rated for at least 5,500 RPM to prevent possible injury or damage to the tool.

A. GENERAL MAINTENANCE

WARNING: Always begin by disconnecting the power supply.

1. Periodically check all clamps, nuts, bolts, screws, and belts for tightness and condition. Make sure the throat plate is in good condition and in position.
2. Check the blade guard assembly.
3. To maintain the table surfaces, fence, and rails, periodically apply paste wax to them and buff to provide smooth functioning. To prevent workfrom slipping during cutting operation, DO NOT wax the working face of the miter fence.
4. Protect the blade by cleaning out sawdust from underneath the table and in the blade teeth. Use a resin solvent on the blade teeth.
5. Clean plastic parts only with a soft damp cloth. DO NOT use any aerosol or petroleum solvents.

B. SPECIFIC TABLE SAW MAINTENANCE

WARNING: Always begin by disconnecting the power supply. Return to Contents TO SET BLADE AT 0 OR 45 DEGREES The angle settings of your saw have been set at the factory and, unless damaged in shipping, should not require setting during assembly. After extensive use, it may need to be checked. Push the bevel locking lever to the right. See Figure 44. Turn the blade adjusting handle to angle the blade. Use a combination square to check squareness between the blade and saw table. If the blade is not perfectly vertical (0 degrees), loosen the lock nut on the 0 degree bolt inside the cabinet, position the blade, adjust the bolt, then re-tighten lock nut. See Figure 44, insert. If the bevel indicator is not at zero, adjust it with the two screws above the slot, beside the blade adjusting handle. Turn the blade adjusting handle until the bottom of the blade has moved completely to the left side of the slot. Lock the angle by pushing the bevel locking lever to the left. If the blade is not an exact 45 degrees, loosen the lock nut on the 45-degree bolt inside the cabinet, position the blade, adjust the bolt, then re-tighten lock nut. See Figure 44, insert. Make a test cut.

Figure 44: Blade Angle Adjustment

TO CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE RIP FENCE TO THE BLADE

WARNING: Unplug the saw to prevent accidental starting. Raise the locking handle to permit the rip fence to be moved. Place a framing square beside the blade and move the rip fence up to the square. Take the dimension on the rip scale. Move the fence back and turn the framing square 180 degrees to check the other side. If the two dimensions are not the same, loosen the two screws on the fence and align it. See Figure 45. Retighten the two screws. Make two or three test cuts on scrap wood. If the cuts are not true, repeat the process. WARNING: Before plugging the saw back in to make test cuts, make sure the switch is in the OFF position and the blade guard is in place. Failure to do so may result in serious injury.

Figure 45: Rip Fence Alignment

TO ADJUST THE BEVEL LOCKING LEVER

The bevel locking lever may work loose and require adjusting. To adjust it, use the following steps. Push the lever full left to the locked position. Remove the screw on the blade adjusting handle. You will need a 3/16 in. allen wrench for this procedure. Remove the blade adjusting handle and cam. Pull out the cam. Remove the set screw on the bevel locking lever. Remove the bevel locking lever from hex nut. Relocate bevel locking lever on the hex nut. Replace set screw and tighten securely. Replace the cam so that the lobe is against the tab as shown in Figure 46. Make sure the cam is seated in the lever. Reassemble the handle to the shaft and cam. Check whether the lever is now in the desired position. Tighten screw securely.

Figure 46: Adjusting the Locking Lever

TO ALIGN THE MITER LOCKING CLAMPS See Figure 47. WARNING: Unplug the saw to prevent accidental starting. The miter locking clamps are preset at the factory but may require adjusting after extended use or if damage occurs in shipping. Adjust them with the following steps: Loosen the set screw behind each locking clamp. Loosen the screw on top of each locking clamp. Lift the locking clamp to the Up position. Push the clamp forward tight against the front rail to bring the clamp into alignment. When the clamps are correctly positioned, retighten the screws and the set screws. Push both front and rear miter locking clamps down to secure the sliding miter table. Return to Contents TO ADJUST THE FRONT AND REAR RAIL CLAMPS See Figure 48. The rail clamps are located below the rails and ensure tight attachment of the rail. Following extended use, the rail holder nut inside the rails may need adjusting. Remove the miter table and accessory table. Remove the front and rear rails by loosening the rail clamps and sliding the rails off. Rotate each rail clamp to the left until it hits or comes in contact with the bottom of the saw table. Tighten rail holder nut until it is snug. Loosen rail holder nut one-fourth (¼) turn. Replace the rails and check the rail clamps. Return to Contents TO ADJUST THE ACCESSORY TABLE See Figure 49. After extended use, the accessory table may work loose causing the accessory table to be loose on the rails. Follow the steps below, when adjustments are required: Remove the hex nut on the lever using a 3/8 in. nut driver. Remove the back-up plate and spring plate. Rotate the spring plate 180° and re-install on the handle shaft. Reassemble all parts and tighten hex nut securely. NOTE: The spring plate offers two ends for use before requiring replacement.

Figure 47: Adjusting the Miter Locking Clamps Figure 48: Adjusting the Rail Clamps Figure 49: Adjusting the Accessory Table

The sliding miter table assembly has been pre-set at the factory to be parallel to the blade. However, misalignment during shipping or requirements for very precise and accurate cuts may require realignment. The square relationship between the blade and the miter fence as it travels the entire distance from the front to the rear of the miter table base during a cut is very important for making precise and accurate cuts.

To avoid unnecessary setups and adjustments, we suggest that you check these setups carefully with a framing square and make practice cuts in scrap wood before making finish cuts in good workpieces.

NOTE: Follow the general rule of measuring twice and cutting once.

Do not loosen any screws for the following adjustments until you have made checks and are sure adjustments are needed. Once screws have been loosened, these settings must be reset.

Two basic checks should be made to determine if adjustments are necessary:

1. The miter base must be parallel to the blade as the table slides from the front to the rear of the miter table assembly.
2. The miter fence must be square to the blade when set at exactly zero (0°) on the miter table scale. This is necessary in order to be able to use the scale on the miter table. The miter table has adjustment screws for squaring miter fence to blade and maintaining 0° scale settings when miter base adjustments are required.

NOTE: These checks and adjustments are being explained in step by step procedures, however, you should be aware that they depend upon each other.

CHECKING SLIDING MITER TABLE ASSEMBLY WARNING: For illustration purposes, the blade guard and anti-kickback pawls have been removed. Do not operate your saw without the blade guard unless specifically instructed to do so for non-through cuts. Return to Contents TO CHECK MITER BASE PARALLELISM WARNING: Begin by unplugging your saw. Failure to unplug saw could result in accidental starting causing possible serious injury. Set saw up as if you were preparing to make a cut. Tighten rail clamps, miter locking clamps, adjusting clamp, etc. Slide miter table (A) to the front of miter base (B) as far as it will go. Place a reference mark (C) near the end of the miter table as shown in figure 50. NOTE: Front of miter base is on infeed side of saw. Place a reference mark on one of the blade teeth (D) and rotate the blade (E) so that the reference mark on the blade is at the front of the throat plate (F). Place a framing square (G) against the blade and align with reference mark on miter table. Measure the distance between the blade and the edge of miter table. NOTE: Place framing square between carbide teeth and measure from blade. This step will insure framing square is square against blade from the front to back of blade. Remove framing square and slide miter table to the rear of miter base as far as it will go. See Figure 51. Rotate the blade so the reference mark on the blade is at the rear of the throat plate. Measuring from the same mark on the blade at the rear will eliminate the effect of blade wobble. Place framing square against the blade and align with the same reference mark on the miter table. Measure the distance between the blade and the edge of the miter table at the rear. Compare whether the front and rear measurements are the same. If they are the same, proceed with checking the miter fence alignment. If not, this indicates the miter base needs aligning. Miter base must then be adjusted before checking miter fence alignment. See "TO ADJUST THE MITER BASE" section that follows.

Figure 50: Miter Table Alignment Figure 51: Miter Table Alignment

TO CHECK MITER FENCE ALIGNMENT The miter fence must be perpendicular to the blade when set at zero degrees. WARNING: Begin by unplugging your saw. Failure to unplug saw could result in accidental starting causing possible serious injury. Set the miter fence (H) at O° as shown in figure 52. Miter indicator (I) should be set precisely on 0° and secured in place with adjusting clamp (J). NOTE: The quick-stop is not necessary for this checking procedure. However, you may want to check and adjust it to 0° at this time. See "Quick-Stop" section that follows. Place a framing square (G) firmly against the miter fence (H), with the other side against the blade (E). See Figure 52. Check whether the miter fence and blade are square with each other. With the framing square against the miter fence there should be no gap from the front to the rear of the blade. If a gap exists, the miter fence may be out of square. Rotate the blade and recheck. If there is a consistent gap between the front and rear of the blade, the miter table needs aligning. Follow the adjustment procedures that follow.

Figure 52: Miter Table Alignment

MAKING ADJUSTMENTS TO SLIDING MITER TABLE ASSEMBLY TO ADJUST THE MITER BASE REMEMBER: Check all settings before loosening screws for the following procedures. Once screws have been loosened, these settings must be reset. Eight screws are visible on the miter base (B). Four screws (K) are on the holder plates and secure these plates to the rails. It is not necessary to loosen or adjust these screws for this adjustment procedure. Another pair of screws (L) is in the base, at the rear. Loosen these two screws (L) and the rear miter locking clamps (M). See Figure 53. The last pair of screws is located on the infeed side of the base. Loosen the left screw (N) only. The right screw (O) will be used as a pivot point. NOTE: The front two miter locking clamps (P) and rail clamps should remain locked. Following steps 2 thru 8 in "TO CHECK MITER BASE PARALLELISM," adjust the miter base so that it is parallel to the blade. Retighten the left front screw (N). Clamp the rear miter locking clamps (M). Retighten the two rear screws (L).

Figure 53: Miter Table Alignment

TO ADJUST THE MITER FENCE WARNING: Begin by unplugging your saw. Failure to unplug saw could result in accidental starting causing possible serious injury. Set the miter fence (H) at 0° as shown in figure 52. Miter indicator (I) should be set precisely on 0° and secured in place with adjusting clamp (J). There are four slides located under the sliding miter table. These slides let the miter table move on the base. Three slides are mounted on eccentric screws that can be adjusted by loosening the hex nuts on top of the miter table. See Figure 54. Loosen the rear hex nuts (Q) on top of sliding miter table for this adjustment procedure. NOTE: The front screws (R) are only needed to remove excessive play in the slides due to wear from extended use. They are not needed for this procedure. The right front hex nut is a non-eccentric pivot and should never be loosened. Adjust the right rear eccentric screw from the lower side of the miter table so that maximum play exists between the slide and miter base. Push left rear of miter table snugly against miter base as shown by the arrow (S) in figure 55 and secure. Place a framing square firmly against the miter fence, with the other side against the blade. Adjust left rear screw from underneath miter table until miter fence and blade are square with each other. Tighten hex nut securely. Adjust right rear screw from underneath miter table to remove excessive play. Tighen hex nut securely. Re-check your setups carefully. Also make sure all screws, hex nuts, etc. have been tightened securely. If sliding miter table assembly is still not square with the blade, repeat the above procedures as needed. Make sure that slides remain square to miter base edge to prevent "cocking" which will result in excessive play in miter table. Return to Contents TO ADJUST QUICK-STOP The quick-stop is preset at the factory to stop the miter fence at exactly zero degrees. However, when sliding miter table adjustments are made, these adjustments may cause the quick stop to need adjusting. Check quick-stop with miter scale set at zero degrees. If adjustments are needed, proceed with the following steps: Loosen the eccentric screw holding the quick-stop. Place the quick-stop against the miter fence with miter scale set at zero degrees. See Figure 56. Adjust eccentric screw until it holds quick-stop securely against miter fence. Retighten hex nut, securing eccentric screw and quick-stop. Check your work. If the quick-stop is not at zero degrees, repeat steps 1 -4.

Figure 54: Miter Fence Alignment Figure 55: Miter Fence Alignment Figure 56: Quick Stop

This saw has been lubricated at the factory prior to shipment. Following extended use, you should inspect and lubricate the following areas to assure smooth operation.

LOCKER BRACKET ASSEMBLY See Figure 57. Add dry lube between both bevel gears, the backup washers and the locker bracket. Add dry lube between threaded hole in motor casting and threaded elevating shaft. Recommended Lubricants: Dry Silicone or Teflon Lubricant	Figure 57: Locker Bracket Lubrication
Return to Contents TILT/ ELEVATING MECHANISM See Figure 58. Add dry lube between the handle shaft and the bore of the clamping bolt. Add dry lube between the face of the clamping bolt and the face of the handle shaft. Add dry lube on the inner surfaces of the bevel locking lever which contacts the cam.	Figure 58: Tilt/Elevating Mechanism Lubrication

Following is a list of optional accessories for the BT3000 table saw:

These accessories may be ordered through your local RYOBI dealer or Ryobi Authorized Service Center. They have been specially designed for the BT3000 table saw. Always use recommended RYOBI accessories for highest quality, convenience and safety. Call Ryobi Customer Service No. 1-800-525-2579 in the United States or 1-800-265-6778 in Canada for your nearest Ryobi Factory Service Center.

WARNING: To avoid the risk of personal injury or damage to your saw or work, DO NOT use accessories not recommended by RYOBI.

EXTENSION CORD CAUTION When using a power tool at a considerable distance from a power source, be sure to use an extension cord that has the capacity to handle the current the tool will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage, resulting in overheating and loss of power. Use the chart to determine the minimum wire size required in an extension cord. Only round jacketed cords recognized by Underwriter's Laboratories (UL) should be used. When working with a tool outdoors, use an extension cord that is designed for outside use. This is indicated by the letters "WA" on the cord's jacket. Before using any extension cord, inspect it for loose or exposed wires and cut or worn insulation.

**Used on 12 gage - 20 amp circuit.

CAUTION: Keep the extension cord clear of the working area. Position the cord so that it will not get caught on lumber, tools or other obstructions while you are working with a power tool.

WARNING: This saw's motor cord must only be plugged into the receptacle provided on the saw which is controlled by the saw's master switch. Never plug the motor cord directly into an extension cord as this will prevent the ability to switch the saw OFF.

The model number will be found on the data plate attached to the right side panel of the cabinet, next to the saw's on-board receptacle. Always mention the model number in all correspondence regarding your TABLE SAW or when ordering repair parts.

*Item 96 includes parts 42, 78, 100 through 105, and 111.

WARNING: Improper electrical repair of the table saw can result in damage to the drive system possibly causing electrical shock or electrocution. Any repairs requiring disassembly of your tool require safety testing and should only be performed by a Ryobi Authorized Service Center.